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The Ultimate Guide to Backyard Chicken Care: Happy Hens, Healthy Eggs
There is something satisfying about gathering fresh, golden-yolked eggs every morning from your hens in the backyard. Having a flock of healthy and happy hens and a consistent supply of farm-fresh eggs can certainly be an interesting venture for pets and livestock owners.
Whether you're a first-time chicken owner or looking to improve your flock's care, having happy chickens and high-quality eggs depends on their health and safety.
Beyond feed and water, backyard chickens require secure and well-maintained coops, balanced nutrition, and predator protection. This guide equips you with the essentials, including the vital role of secure fencing and the advantages of electric netting in safeguarding your free-range flock.
Setting Up the Chicken Coop and Run
A well-designed chicken coop keeps your flock safe, comfortable, and productive. It should have sufficient room for the chickens to move around, ventilation to maintain air quality, and cosy nesting areas for egg-laying. Consider these factors when designing the ultimate hen house.
Coop Size and Ventilation
Each hen should have at least 3–4 square feet of floor space inside the coop so they can move freely without overcrowding. There should also be enough headroom so the hens can stand upright comfortably.
If your flock has access to an outdoor run, it’s recommended to allocate 8–10 square feet per hen in the run area. This additional space allows them to forage, dust bathing, exercise, and engage in natural behaviours while staying safe from predators. There are various types of runs, from simple wire enclosures to more elaborate, covered runs. Consider materials like galvanised wire mesh for durability and predator resistance.
Ammonia from droppings can cause respiratory problems in hens; thus, proper ventilation is important. Install vents or windows near the top of the coop for airflow without drafts. Use hardware cloth instead of solid panels in some locations to keep predators out while allowing airflow. Install adjustable vents to modulate airflow according to seasonal temperature fluctuations to keep your chickens comfortable year-round.
Nesting Boxes and Roosting Perches
Chickens instinctively perch at night. Prevent competition and encourage restful sleep by having at least 10-12 inches of roosting space per hen. Install perches at least two feet off the ground. Round wooden dowels or 2x4-inch boards with the wide side up provide the best foot support and comfort. Metal perches are not recommended, as they can become excessively cold during winter months, potentially causing discomfort or injury to your chickens.
Nesting boxes are essential for providing hens with a secure and private space to lay eggs. Nesting boxes should be provided at a ratio of one box for every 4–5 hens, ensuring they have a private and cozy place to lay eggs. Each box should measure approximately 12x12 inches and lined with soft bedding, such as straw or wood shavings, to ensure comfort. Place the nesting boxes in a quiet, dimly lit area of the coop to provide hens with the privacy they prefer. To maintain egg cleanliness, consider installing slightly raised edges along the front of the boxes, which help contain bedding and prevent it from being kicked out.
Nutrition for Hens
A balanced diet is the cornerstone of healthy, productive hens. For optimal egg production and overall well-being, chickens require a diet rich in essential nutrients. Start with the appropriate feed for their age:
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Starter feed for chicks
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Grower feed for pullets
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Layer feed for mature hens (fortified with calcium for strong eggshells)
Supplement their diet with healthy treats like leafy greens, fruits, and mealworms, but offer these in moderation to avoid nutritional imbalances.
Hens should have easy access to fresh, clean water. Water containers must be cleaned daily and the water changed to prevent bacterial growth.
While commercial feed offers vital nutrients, adding fresh greens, fruits, and vegetables maintains chickens' interest and supports their nutrition. Great choices are leafy greens, mealworms, oats, and herbs; treats should account for no more than 10% of their diet.
Health and Hygiene
For a flock to thrive, it is important to maintain proper health and hygiene. Regular health checks, parasite prevention, and a clean coop can contribute to the productivity and happiness of your hens.
Regular Coop Cleaning and Maintenance
Here are some tips to keep the coop clean and your flock healthy and comfortable:
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Remove droppings daily
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Replace bedding weekly
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Deep-clean the entire coop every few months by scrubbing surfaces and disinfecting nesting boxes and perches
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Proper ventilation and dry bedding help reduce bacteria and ammonia buildup.
Table 1. Common Bacterial Diseases and Parasites in Backyard Chickens
|
Disease and Cause |
Symptoms |
Prevention and Treatment |
|
Infectious Laryngotracheitis Cause: Herpes virus |
Respiratory distress, coughing, sneezing, expectoration of bloody mucus, conjunctivitis, and facial swelling |
Vaccination Biosecurity |
|
Mycoplasmosis (Chronic Respiratory Disease) Mycoplasma gallisepticum |
Coughing, sneezing, facial swelling, nasal discharge, cloudy air sacs, deformed eggs, drop in egg production * Affected birds will remain carriers for life |
Purchase chicks only from MG-free flocks Don’t mix birds of different species and ages Flock depopulation and repopulation with clean stock. Ask your veterinarian about providing medicated feed. |
|
Fowl Cholera (Pasteurellosis) Pasteurella multocida |
Difficulty breathing, fever, reduced appetite, reduced egg production, rapid weight loss, sudden death, swelling and darkening of the face and wattles, lameness, watery yellowish or green diarrhea |
Vaccination Rodent control Protecting your flock from wild birds Consult your veterinarian regarding antibiotic treatment. |
|
Infectious Synovitis Mycoplasma synoviae |
Lameness, lethargy, reluctance to move, stilted gait due to swollen joints, weight loss, and breast blisters. Respiratory distress may be present. Greenish diarrhoea is common among dying chickens. |
Obtain birds from certified flocks. Treatment: Antibiotic therapy |
|
Salpingitis Mostly caused by age-related changes in a hen’s reproductive system. |
Common in older birds; affected hens may show signs of decreased egg production, distended stomach, and difficulty walking. |
Surgery may be needed to remove the oviduct through which the eggs pass to completely resolve the issue. But the prognosis is poor to guarded. Antibiotics may be prescribed by the veterinarian if a bacterial infection is present. |
|
Bumblefoot (Pododermatitis) Commonly due to pressure necrosis from inappropriate footing, trauma, and abnormal posture and weight bearing. Staphylococcus spp. (secondary bacterial infection) |
Redness of the foot Swelling, pain, and, in severe cases, loss of function. |
Prevention includes an appropriate diet, proper footing, and perches. Good drainage of the coop to avoid wet or muddy ground. Treatment may range from foot soaks and pressure-relieving bandages to surgery. |
|
Colibacillosis E. coli |
Symptoms depend on the body system affected—respiratory distress, diarrhoea, or sudden death. |
Prevention: Proper management and sanitation practices, reducing stressors |
|
Infectious Coryza Avibacterium paragallinarum |
Difficulty breathing, facial swelling around the eyes and wattle, distinct foul-smelling sticky discharge around the eyes and nose, and decreased egg production. |
Prevention: Vaccination Treatment: Antibiotic therapy, but birds remain carriers for life. |
|
Internal Parasites
|
Unthriftiness, stunted growth, emaciation, enteritis, anemia, decreased egg production |
Rotate birds in yards or pens Deworm flocks regularly, particularly those raised on the ground or in floor pens Provide medicated feed (containing broad-spectrum dewormer) Treat infected birds with the proper dewormer |
|
Coccidiosis Eimeria sp. |
High mortality, bloody feces, pale or shriveled combs, ruffled feathers, lack of appetite, drop in egg production, pale shanks |
Good management Provide medicated feed Treat infected flocks promptly |
|
External Parasites
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Scaly leg mite: – scales and crusts in legs, combs, and wattles Chicken mite: -- anemia, feather loss, and irritation in poultry |
Scaly leg mite—Cull or isolate affected birds. Apply an oil-based product such as petroleum jelly or a 50:50 kerosene and cooking oil mix to affected areas Chicken mite–cleaning and disinfecting the coop, while treatment includes using acaricides and diatomaceous earth for dust bathing Remove bedding and nesting materials and replace them with new ones. Consult a veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment options. |
Sources: Common Bacterial Diseases in Backyard Chickens Common Poultry Diseases and Their Prevention
Prompt veterinary care is very important when symptoms are first observed. New chickens should always be quarantined for at least 30 days to prevent disease introduction to your existing flock.
Egg Production
Consistent egg production relies on healthy, stress-free hens. This can be achieved by:
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Providing a balanced layer feed
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Ensuring 14-16 hours of daily light (supplementing in winter)
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Maintaining a clean, quiet coop with nesting boxes
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Avoiding sudden changes in their diet, environment, or routine, as stress can reduce egg production.
Egg Collection
Collect eggs twice daily to prevent cracking or contamination. Store them unwashed at room temperature for immediate use, or refrigerate for longer storage. Clean with a dry cloth or warm water only.
Common egg issues include soft shells, often caused by calcium deficiency, and double yolks, which occur in younger hens adjusting to laying.
Seasonal Management
Egg production naturally slows in winter due to reduced daylight hours. Manage seasonal laying dips by providing supplemental light in winter and extra protein during moulting.
During moulting season, hens may temporarily stop laying while they regenerate feathers; thus, the need for extra protein. These practices ensure a steady supply of fresh, quality eggs.
Keeping Chickens Safe From Predators
Protecting free-range hens from predators is important. Fencing creates a safe, controlled environment, allowing chickens to roam without risk. It balances the benefits of foraging with safety. Without secure fencing, your flock is vulnerable to various predators, day and night.
Table 2. Pros and Cons of Fencing Options for Chicken Safety
Type of Fencing |
Pros |
Cons |
|
Wooden or wire fencing |
Blocks strong winds and provides shade, keeping chickens comfortable in extreme weather conditions. Aesthetic appeal Clearly defines boundary |
Need to be reinforced with wire to prevent predators from digging under or squeezing through gaps. High cost and labor-intensive installation Requires regular maintenance as it can rot, warp, or attract termites. Less flexibility for free-range chickens
|
|
Welded wire or hardware cloth |
Sturdier than standard chicken wire. Can be a cost-effective long-term investment when galvanised and coated to prevent rust. Effective against small predators Allow for excellent airflow and natural light, keeping the coop well-ventilated while allowing chicken keepers to monitor their flock easily. Burying the wire at least 12 inches underground or adding a wire apron can help prevent burrowing predators from gaining access. The rigid structure also makes it difficult for predators to climb. Can be used for coop walls, run enclosures, windows, and even flooring, providing all-around security for your chickens. |
May require regular maintenance and extra security measures, like buried fencing to stop digging animals. Higher cost compared to standard chicken wire. Installation can be labour-intensive because materials are rigid and require heavy-duty tools to cut and secure. Welded wire is less flexible, making it harder to adapt to uneven terrain. It doesn’t prevent burrowing predators like foxes or raccoons from digging under the fence. |
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Highly effective predator deterrent. work well for deterring both ground and aerial predators. Doesn’t require a fully enclosed run. Give hens more space to roam while remaining safe. Portable and easy to install. Less labor-intensive than traditional fencing Works in various terrains. Flexible and expandable Solar-powered options are available, which are ideal for off-grid areas or locations without access to electrical outlets. |
Requires a Power Source Can be more expensive upfront due to the cost of the fence, energizer, and accessories. Frequent trimming around the fence is necessary to maintain proper function. Young chicks or small birds may get tangled in the netting, leading to injury or fatality. Unlike wooden or welded wire fencing, electric netting does not physically block predators. It only deters them with a shock, and some determined predators may still attempt to breach the fence. |
Conclusion
Keeping chickens in your backyard offers numerous benefits such as fresh eggs, natural companionship, and a deeper comprehension of sustainable living. A suitable coop, balanced nutrition, adequate fencing, and proper health and sanitation are important factors that can keep your hens healthy and productive.
Learn how to install your electric fence effectively with these helpful guides:
